No walk of the Vale of Ffestiniog would be complete without passing by Bryn Cader Faner or the ‘Crown of Thorns’. On the bronze-age trackway, rising up from the coast south of Harlech, this is the route that pagans would take from Ireland to Stonehenge. Pagans? Maybe the thieves that robbed the burial kist? Or maybe the soldiers that used it as target practice? Either way, perched on the edge of the Rhinog mountains, with sunset views over Cardigan Bay, this has to be the most atmospheric solstice spot in Snowdonia.